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DRAFT BEER TROUBLESHOOTING GLYCOL SYSTEMS
Temperature - The number one problem with foaming beer. Beer needs to be under 38 degrees. When beer get warmer than 38 degrees co2 breaks out causing foam. On the flipside when beer gets too cold it absorbs co2 and can over-carbonate causing foam. The ideal temp is 34-38. Always use a calibrated thermometer. Calibrate by placing in a fully packed with ice glass of water. It should read 32° if it is calibrated correctly. Always a good idea to temp the second or third glass of beer so that the glass temp doesn't affect the temperature reading.
Adjust cooler temp if not under 38.
If you are unable to get ideal temp with the thermostat adjustment and a condenser cleaning you may need to contact a refrigeration expert.
Check glycol chiller temp - Glycol should be between 29-31 degrees. This is important as it needs to circulate to the bar and back keeping the beer under 38.
Glycol Circulation - Confirm the glycol pump is circulating the glycol. The chiller has a return line and glycol should be flowing from it. You may need a new pump and motor if you are not getting any return flow.
Pressure - It is imperative that you know what pressure your system is balanced at and never let anyone change it. There are several factors that determine a systems pressure. It is common for staff to turn down the pressure when a beer is foaming due to temp. That actually makes it worse. If you do not know your system recommended pressure it is best to consult a professional for help.
co2 cylinder pressure gauge
Keg pressure gauge
This regulator is off! The toggle should be pointing down for the on position.
Confirm the regulator is set at the proper pressure and adjust accordingly. If your regulator pressure was set at 20lbs or higher for several hours on 100% co2 there is a good chance your keg may be over carbonated. A blend gas of nitrogen and co2 is necessary for any system that needs more than 18PSI.
Gas out or shut off – Generally this will cause the beer to flow slowly or eventually not at all. Remove the coupler from the keg and engage the handle as if you are tapping it. You should hear gas coming out of the coupler.
Check you have gas in the co2 cylinder and nitrogen cylinder if on a blender. If you think you may have a damaged regulator you can remove it from the gas cylinder and slowly open the wheel valve on the cylinder. You will hear gas and it should be fairly loud. Confirm all ball valves (toggle levers) are parallel with the gas lines. Most draft systems will have a ball valve (shut off) on the regulator and often will have ball valves on air distributors or secondary regulators inside the cooler. The gas blender will have shuts offs also. They get accidentally bumped in the off position often. Follow the gas line up from the coupler to the gas cylinder and confirm all ball valves are in the on position.
Bad connection between coupler and keg - Sometimes we just have a bad connection between the keg and coupler. Untap and re-tap the keg can sometimes fix this issue. If you are having issues with more than one line chances are this is not the problem.
shut off toggle
Damaged body washer - Remove the coupler and inspect the bottom seal for damage. Replace if needed. You will generally see bubbles coming out the top of the keg if the bottom seal is bad and letting air in. If the issue is with more than one line chances are this is not the problem.
Keg seal nicked or damaged - Dry and inspect the keg seal. Even the smallest nick or damage to the keg seal can cause foam. Sometimes you can temporally repair a damaged keg seal by centering a faucet washer on the keg seal and tap it up. If the issue is with more than one line chances are this is not the problem.
Missing or damaged probe seal - Not all couplers have a probe washer but many do. Check other couplers in the cooler for a probe washer. If they are the same as the coupler in question you should be able to confirm weather or not one is needed. If the probe washer is missing replace it with a new one.
Frozen keg - Any chance this keg has been previously frozen? Kegs can over-carbonate if they have been exposed to freezing temps.
Dirty or Damaged faucet - Most standard faucets have two breather holes that can get clogged if not properly maintained. Remove and dissemble faucet. Clean and inspect the breather holes and insure they are free of build up.
Damaged shank - It is rare that a good shank gets damaged. Replacing the shank can eliminate that as an issue and should be one of the last things you try. A shank with a 3/16 bore never performs well at high elevation. A 3/16 bore will work fine if the beer is real cold but often will foam as soon as the beer gets close to the breaking point of 38 degrees. Easiest way to confirm if the shank hole is too small is to get a 1/4 inch drill bit and see if it will go in the shank bore. Shanks should have a minimum bore of 1/4". Shanks should be drilled out or replaced if the bore is 3/16 and at high elevation.
Most quality glycol towers have screw in shanks. If this is the case you can easily try a shank from another line and confirm if the shank is the problem.
Wrong gas on the blender - This is not common. Gas blenders should have 100% co2 and 100% nitrogen. A pre blend gas on a blender can cause over-carbonation.