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Temperature - The number one problem with foaming beer. Beer needs to be under 38 degrees. When beer hits 38 co2 breaks out causing foam. On the flipside when beer gets too cold it absorbs co2 and can over-carbonate causing foam. The ideal temp is 34-38. Always use a calibrated thermometer. Calibrate by placing in a fully packed with ice glass of water. It should read 32° if it is calibrated correctly. Always a good idea to temp the second or third glass of beer so that the glass temp doesn't affect the temperature reading.
Keg pressure gauge
co2 cylinder pressure gauge
This regulator is off! The toggle should be pointing down for the on position.
Adjust cooler temp. If your beer is warm, I recommend you check the coolers condenser. It looks like a radiator and usually is located at the bottom front corner of the cooler. Most manufactures recommend it be cleaned every two months. It is where the cooler sucks in air to cool the compressor. If it is dirty vacuum or blow out with compressed air. Let the temp stabilize and retake temp. If the beer temp is still warm after several hours adjust thermostat. Adjust in small increments as to much can cause the beer to freeze and that can damage the beer as it can over-carbonate.
If your beer is too cold adjust thermostat warmer and retake temp after several hours.
If you are unable to get ideal temp with the thermostat adjustment you may need to contact a refrigeration expert.
Make sure your blower fan is plugged in and working. Forced air systems should have a blower fan to keep the lines cold between the cooler and bar. Confirm the blower duct work is not damaged and you have good return air flow.
Pressure - It is imperative that you know what pressure your system is balanced at and never let anyone change it.
Confirm the regulator is set at the proper pressure and adjust accordingly. If your regulator pressure was set at 20lbs or higher for several hours on 100% co2 there is a good chance your keg may be over carbonated. A blend gas of nitrogen and co2 is necessary for any system that needs more than 18PSI.
Gas out or shut off – Generally this will cause the beer to flow slowly or eventually not at all. Remove the coupler from the keg and engage the handle as if you are tapping it. You should hear gas coming out of the coupler.
Check you have gas in the co2 cylinder and nitrogen cylinder if on a blender. If you think you may have a damaged regulator you can remove it from the gas cylinder and slowly open the wheel valve on the cylinder. You will hear gas and it should be fairly loud. Confirm all ball valves (toggle levers) are parallel with the gas lines. Most direct draw coolers will have a ball valve (shut off) on the regulator and often will have ball valves on air distributors inside the cooler. They get accidentally bumped in the off position often. Follow the gas line up from the coupler and confirm all ball valves are in the on position.
Bad connection between coupler and keg - Sometimes we just have a bad connection between the keg and coupler. untap and re-tap the keg. Sometimes this will fix this issue.
Damaged bottom washer - Remove the coupler and inspect the bottom seal for damage. Replace if needed. You will generally see bubbles coming out the top of the keg if the bottom seal is bad and letting air in.
Keg seal nicked or damaged - Dry and inspect the keg seal. Even the smallest nick or damage to the keg seal can cause foam. Sometimes you can temporally repair a damaged keg seal by centering a faucet washer on the keg seal and tap it up.
Missing or damaged probe washer - Not all couplers have a probe washer but many do. Check other couplers in the cooler for a probe washer. If they are the same as the coupler in question you should be able to confirm weather or not one is needed.
Frozen keg - Any chance this keg has been previously frozen? Kegs can over-carbonate if they have been exposed to freezing temps.
Dirty or Damaged faucet - Most standard faucets have two breather holes that can get clogged if not properly maintained. Remove and dissemble faucet. Clean and inspect the breather holes and insure they are free of build up. Try another faucet on the problem line.
Damaged or 3/16 bore shank - It is rare that a good shank gets damaged. Replacing the shank can eliminate that as an issue and should be one of the last things you try. A shank with a 3/16 bore never performs well at high elevation. A 3/16 bore will work fine if the beer is real cold but often will foam as soon as the beer gets close to the breaking point of 38 degrees. Easiest way to confirm if the shank hole is too small is to get a 1/4 inch drill bit and see if it will go in the shank bore. Shanks should have a minimum bore of 1/4". Shanks should be drilled out or replaced if the bore is 3/16 and at high elevation.
Improper balance - Draft beer systems need to be balanced for temp, co2 volume and elevation. Often we find when the keg cooler is new and good and cold it will pour ok, but when it starts getting close to the temp breaking point of 38 degrees it will perform poorly. Always recommended to have you draft system balanced for elevation.